Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to explore these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
